The Rossendale Rambler

The jetliner descended from the bright sunlight at 37000 ft down into the gloom of a Kathmandu evening. Through the throngs of people I managed to locate Dan, our guide, and quickly made friends with the six other Brits who had also joined the 'Everest Teahouse Trek' (Explore Worldwide holidays). A whirlwind drive next through the city, pulsating with noise and pollution, to reach the sanctuary of our hotel.

I had booked on impulse, wanting to see the mighty Himalayas before I got too old, and hoped this 2-week trip was going to be a good holiday. We spent 1˝ days in the city of Kathmandu and experienced its cheerful exuberance, thronging people, street hawkers and beggars, holymen, temples, rickshaws and motorbikes, poverty and craftsmanship - a jumble of impressions. But the mountains were what I had sought so an 80-mile flight by tiny 'plane to the hill village of Lukla was really the start of the adventure for me.

From Lukla we had an 8-day trek ever upwards into the mountains towards Everest (and back). It was March. There had been no rain for months, and all the tracks were dusty dry. Yet spring was coming and the bright red rhododendrons, so abundant on the steep hillsides, were bursting out of bud.

As walkers we were rather spoilt, only having to carry a light day sack. All the rest of our gear was carried with great cheerfulness, by our team of six Nepali sherpas and porters. They also found our accommodation for us and organised our meals. A real holiday! Each night we stopped at a different 'lodge'. I suppose you would call the B&Bs ‘hostels’ in England. Simply furnished but comfortable enough. So the whole trip was very relaxed and enjoyable, with plenty of time for conversation and to see the sights.

I usually keep a journal of all my walking holidays, which gives me great pleasure to re-read in later months and years. The one I wrote for this trip has become a little book of 48 pages (see me later if you would like a read of it!) - so when our Editor asked me to write this article I found it difficult to condense my impressions into a limited space. Perhaps the poem will catch the flavour .... I don't think I was disappointed in this holiday, but it was rather different from what I expected: Not so much a trek into the wilderness, as a walk along a well-used route, busy with folk, and villages, and friendly places to eat and drink. We never walked any great distance in a day, but it was surprisingly tough at first - because of the thin air at this altitude. The trek went from 9000 to 13000 ft.

But the mountains were absolutely huge and spectacular and we got tantalisingly close to them. I'll long remember the first rays of early morning lighting up those snow-covered pinnacles, Nupla or Thamserku, and the views of Everest from Tengpoche Gompa (monastery) near the furthest point of our trek. And I'll fondly recall quiet moments too when we would relax after our exertions at a teahouse and sip lemon tea on a hot afternoon.

The Nepalis are a lovely people, really genuine and friendly, and you have to warm to their enthusiasm. Yes, it was a good experience and I'm glad I went... And yet it has not spoilt my enjoyment of our own countryside at home. Rather the reverse. Coming home from abroad you see with fresh eyes the subtle beauty of moist, green England, which takes some beating!

We stand atop a wooded hill
     with sandy plateau bare.
..Do you suppose that's Everest
     which rises over there?
And surely Ama Dablam too,
     clear, bright in morning air.
-Still miles away yet super-high,
Their ice-blue summits jab the sky.

We've travelled half across the world,
     to reach this remote place,
And walked for almost half a week,
     since leaving Lukla base,
So let's enjoy this prospect of
     vast distances and space!
-While high above with soaring ease,
A pair of vultures ride the breeze.

The route we came lies far below,
     where cleaving hillsides steep,
The forest rivers tear and groan,
     and over boulders leap
Their glacial waters turquoise blue:-
     a cloudy torrent deep.
-But look ahead where strong winds blow,
The high peaks throw out plumes of snow.

Come Dan and Tracey, gather in,
     with smiling sherpas too,
Collette and Richard stand just here,
     and grin before the view.
This is the snap to show our friends
     what we have been up to!
-This special instant we'll recall
Whene'er, we hear the name 'Nepal' !

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